Catching up

Writings from my journal September 29th, 2016

Well I've landed in San Fransisco, it took about 30min to get my surfboard, all I could think of was that they lost it, and that would of had me really flustered. But it came in and wasn't broken thank goodness. Avery and Liv pick me up and I hopped into the back of his old Ford Aerostar Van, it's fairly clean on the inside and a bit dusty on the out, and someone wrote "Hell Boy Rules" on the window. I love it. We also pick up Liv's friend Emma then head to a safeway grocery store to grab some beer and food. Hoping to score some waves at ocean beach we drive up, it's a bit junky but looks kind of fun. Avery and I have a few beers and paddle out. I'm a little buzzed, those apple ales are really strong.

    We're out having fun trading waves for about 45 minutes then Avery yells "DUDE WHAT WAS THAT?!" I look out the back and not far past him is one of the biggest dorsal fins i've ever seen and it's racing at us. We start scrambling in, luckily there was a wave that came in and we both got on it and safely made it to shore. This was 100% a shark, it moved like one, very fast across the surface, not like a dolphin would. Both of us are standing on the beach in our wetsuits in shock and disbelief looking out the ocean hoping to see it again but it never comes back up. It was hard to find the words to describe that session. Welcome back to California.